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VANILLA RL

Note: Some of these photos, while adequately serving to demonstrate service procedure, may not accurately show the model of fork.

Disassembly

Remove the RL Topcap

With a hex key wrench, remove the hex key on top of the red rebound knob.
Note: The RL and RLC procedures are the same, except the RL does not have the low-speed compression bezel shown in the pictures below.
Remove the rebound knob by lifting it.
Using a hex key wrench, loosen—but do not remove—the three set screws on top of the lockout lever.
Lift up and remove the lockout lever. If it will not come off, you may need to loosen the set screws a bit more.
Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.
Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.
- After loosening the RL Topcap assembly, you are now ready to remove the bottom nut on the damper, which will allow you to fully remove the RL Damper assembly from the lower leg assembly.
- Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening the bottom nut.
- Make sure the topcap assembly is screwed in a few turns since you will need to turn the fork upside-down to access the bottom nut. You will not want suspension fluid spilling all over your new Hush Puppies.

Remove the Lockout Force Knob

Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, loosen—but do not remove—the bolt on the knob at the bottom of the right fork leg.
Once the bolt is loose enough, remove the knob and set it aside.

Remove the RL Damper

Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut.
Screw the bottom nut back on two full turns.
Using a plastic faced hammer, gently strike the bottom nut to release the damper assembly.
Holding the fork over an oil pan, remove the bottom nut and crush washer. If the crush washer isn't attached to the nut, check the bottom of the lower leg; it might be stuck there. Suspension fluid should flow out.
Making sure the fork is right-side up, remove the topcap.
Pull up on the topcap and remove the RL Damper assembly.

Remove the Preload Topcap

Before removing the Preload Topcap, turn the preload knob (shown below) fully counterclockwise. This releases the load on the coil spring.

CAUTION: There is a small amount of suspension fluid in the left leg. Screw in the topcap at least 2 full turns before turning the fork upside-down, to prevent the fluid from spilling out.

Unscrew the preload topcap with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.

Remove the 32 mm Vanilla Spring

The Preload Topcap was loosened in the previous step. You can now fully unthread the topcap to expose the coil spring.
Simply pull out the coil spring.
Note: The 2007 VANILLA 140 does not have a shorter travel option. Therefore, you should not find any travel spacers on top of the coil spring.
Sometimes the plunger shaft will come out when the coil spring is pulled out. If that is not the case, turn the fork upside-down and allow the plunger shaft to drop out.

Remove the Crown Steerer Assembly

If the damper and spring assemblies are still in the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly, they can be removed at this point without issue. Unscrew the topcap assembly from the crown and lift up on the corresponding damper/spring assembly.
The upper tubes and steerer tube are pressed into the crown using a one-time press fit assembly. The crown/steerer/upper tube assembly is not a serviceable item; any deformation of this assembly requires replacement.

Both the damper shaft and air spring shaft should be dislodged from the lower legs, allowing you to remove the lower leg assembly. Drain the lower leg assembly into an oil pan before putting it aside.
Clean the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly with parts cleaner.
Inspect the assembly for any nicks, cuts, scrapes, scratches or gouges, and replace if necessary.
- The assemblies that normally prevent the removal of the lower legs should already have been removed.
- Removal of the lower legs should be done with the fork secured in a bike stand and over an oil pan.

Remove the 32 mm Lower Assembly

Making sure the fork is secured in a bike stand or soft-jawed vise and over an oil pan, turn the fork upside-down.
Remove the topcap assemblies from both sides of the fork, and let the oil drain out.
If not already done, remove all base valve bolts and knobs.
Gently pull up on the lower legs to fully disengage them from the upper tubes.
Drain any remaining fluid from the lower legs into an oil pan.
- After removal of the lower legs, it is a good idea to replace the dust wipers and foam rings
- When possible, the bicycle/fork should be stored upside-down to keep the dust wipers and foam rings lubricated.

Remove the Dust Wipers from the Lower Assembly

Using an 18 mm open-end wrench, pry up the dust wipers. Be careful not to scratch the ID of the lower legs.
After the dust wipers are removed, the foam rings will be visible. Lift them out of the lower legs. If they cannot be located, check under the dust wipers; they might be stuck underneath.

You can get a general sense of the condition of the fork by examining the foam rings. Dry foam rings indicate a lack of fluids or, possibly, a leak. Dirty foam rings may indicate a faulty dust wiper. In either condition, the anodizing on the upper tubes should be examined. If the anodizing has worn off due to insufficient lubrication, replacement of the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly might be necessary.
After examining the dust wipers and foam rings, they can be discarded and replaced using the following replacement kits:
FOX 32 mm Dust Wiper Kit (FOX P/N: 803-00-079)
Lower Leg Bushings:
FOX Racing Shox recommends that you have your bushings serviced at a Factory Authorized Service Center. Refer to http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/service.htm.
Bottom-out Bumpers:
- Bottom-out bumpers are technically not a serviceable item, so they rarely need to be replaced.
Dropouts:
- Over time the knurled surfaces of the front wheel hub and quick-release skewer wear out the dropout region of the lower leg (see Dropout photo below).
- Inspect and measure the thickness of the dropouts every 6 months or 100 hours. Ensure that any point on the surface is above the minimum specification of 6.20 mm (see Measure Dropout photo below).
- Replace the lower leg assembly if the dropout thickness is at the minimum specification or less.
  Dropout
  Measure Dropout

Replacing the Dust Wipers

Discard the original dust wipers and foam rings, and install new ones from the FOX 32 mm dust wiper kit (PN 803-00-079).

Presoak the new foam rings in 10 wt. damper oil.
Place the oil-soaked foam rings in the lower legs as shown.
Install the new dust wipers over the foam rings and seat them fully into place using thumb pressure, as shown. You can apply a thin coat of oil to the sides of the dust wipers, to ease their installation.
Note: be sure to seat the dust wipers into the lower assembly completely and evenly.
While tilting and gently pressing the upper tubes into the lower leg assembly, push past the newly installed dust wipers and foam rings, sliding the lower leg assembly onto the crown steerer assembly part way.
Tip: slightly stretching the outer lip of the dust wipers during this step won't risk causing damage to them.

Damper Cartridge Service

For specific service instructions for internal assemblies, see the 2007 32 mm RL and RLC cartridge servicing procedure.

Note: Before proceeding with any cartridge service procedures, be sure that you have drained all oil from the damper cartridge.

Go to Damper Cartridge Oil Removal for more information about this procedure.

Install the 32 mm Vanilla Spring

Drop the spring plunger shaft into the left upper tube.
The bottom of the plunger shaft should protrude from the bottom of the lower leg. Place a new crush washer on the shaft, then screw the bottom nut on.
Torque the bottom nut to 50 in-lb (5.65 N-m) using a 10 mm socket and torque wrench.

Turn the fork right-side up, then drop the coil spring into the upper tube. (Make sure you are inserting the proper-rated coil spring into the fork. If the rider wishes to switch springs, now is the time to do it. Consult the Coil Spring Guidelines table below for spring settings.)
(Note: The 2007 VANILLA 140 does not have a shorter travel option. Therefore, you should not find any travel spacers on top of the coil spring.)

COIL SPRING GUIDELINES
FOX Part #	Approximate Spring Rate	Color Code	Travel (mm)	Rider Weight lbs. (kg)
039-05-080	40.6 lb/in	Black	140	<90–115 (40.8-52.2)
039-05-081	48.5 lb/in	Purple	140	115–150 (52.2-68.0)
039-05-082	56.4 lb/in	Blue	140	150–180 (68.0-81.6)
039-05-083	60.9 lb/in	Green	140	180–210 (81.6-95.3)

Pour FOX suspension oil into the spring-side upper tube. Consult the Oil Volumes table for suspension oil weight and amount specifications per fork year and model.
Note: The picture below shows the damper side, but this step applies to the spring side; that is, the left side from a seated rider's perspective.)

Install the Preload Topcap

Screw on the preload topcap.
Torque the topcap to 220 in-lb. (24.86 N-m) with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats.

Adjust preload on the fork in accordance with the owner's manual. The table below shows proper sag settings for a 2007 VANILLA 140 mm fork.
SAG SETUP
Travel
XC/Race
FIRM
Freeride/All-Mountain
PLUSH
140 mm (5.5")
20 mm (3/4")
30 mm (1.25")

Install the RL Damper

Insert the damper assembly into the right upper tube. Make sure the adjuster shaft protrudes from the bottom of the lower leg.
Place a new crush washer on the end of the adjuster shaft.
Screw on the bottom nut. Using a torque wrench and 10 mm socket, torque the bottom nut to 50 in-lb (5.65 N-m).
Turn the fork right-side up and pull up on the topcap assembly. Pour in the proper amount of FOX suspension oil into the right upper tube. Consult the Oil Volumes table for suspension oil weight and amount specifications per fork year and model.
Screw the topcap assembly on and torque to 220 in-lb. (24.86 N-m) using a 26 mm socket and torque wrench.

Note: The pictures below show an RLC topcap assembly, but the procedure outlined below applies to an RL topcap assembly. Ignore the low-speed compression bezel and you'll be fine.

Install the RL Topcap

Screw the damper topcap into the upper tube with a 26 mm 6-point socket.
Place the lockout lever on the topcap assembly. Using the lever as a wrench, turn the lockout lever clockwise as far as it will go. Take the lever off, replace it and turn again until you are sure that you have turned the adjuster shaft fully clockwise. Remove the lever one more time and position it near the 6 o'clock position; this is now the locked-out position of the fork. Turning the lever counterclockwise will unlock the fork. However, note that the fork will mechanically be locked out once the lever has past the 3 o'clock position, although it is a good idea to turn the lever full counterclockwise anyway.
Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, tighten the three set screws on top of the lockout lever. Do not overtighten these set screws. Doing so will damage the lockout lever. Overtightening the screws cause the associated ball bearings to stress the surrounding aluminum surfaces, causing permanent damage. To be safe, lightly tighten the screws, then back off 1/2 turn. Turn the lockout lever and check for proper, smooth operation.
Place the rebound knob on top of the lockout lever. The lever and adjuster shaft are indexed.
Using a 1.3 mm (0.050") hex key wrench, tighten the hex key on top of the rebound knob.

Install the Lockout Force Knob

Place the knob on to the adjuster shaft. Align the hex nut on the knob with the divot on the end of the adjuster shaft.
Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, tighten the hex nut.