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32 mm TALAS III RLC

The full "TALAS System" fork service overhaul procedures on this page require specialized tools and a higher level of technical expertise. The full service procedures are intended for the qualified service technicians having this higher level of technical service skill, and the proper tools.

For simplified TALAS dust wiper and open bath oil change procedures, click here.
For the full "TALAS System" fork service overhaul, continue with the procedures below.

Note: Some of these photos, while adequately serving to demonstrate service procedure, may not accurately show the fork model.

Damper Cartridge Removal

Before starting the following procedure, open this diagram to view a graphic cross-sectional overview of the RLC topcap hardware to familiarize yourself with its overall construction.

Remove the RLC Topcap

With a 2 mm hex key wrench, remove the hex key on top of the red rebound knob.
Note: Before removing the RLC Topcap, you must first remove the rebound knob, lockout lever, and the low-speed compression bezel. Then, remove the nut at the bottom of the fork leg, which subsequently will be disassembled.
Remove the rebound knob by lifting it.
With a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, loosen—but do not remove—the three set screws on top of the lockout lever.
Lift up and remove the lockout lever. If it will not come off, you may need to loosen the set screws a bit more.
Lift up and remove the low-speed compression bezel.
After all the controls have been removed, you will see a ball bearing and a pin on the inside of the topcap. The pin does not need to be removed.
Using a dental pick, remove the ball bearing. Also remove the spring that is underneath the ball bearing.
Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.
Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.
- After loosening the RLC Topcap assembly, you are now ready to remove the bottom nut on the damper, which will allow you to fully remove the RLC Damper assembly from the lower leg assembly.
- Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening the bottom nut.
- Make sure the topcap assembly is screwed in a few turns since you will need to turn the fork upside-down to access the bottom nut. You don't want suspension fluid spilling all over your new Hush Puppies.

Remove the Lockout Force Knob

Using a 2 mm hex key wrench, loosen—but do not remove—the bolt on the knob at the bottom of the right fork leg.
Once the bolt is loose enough, remove the knob and set it aside.

Remove the RLC Damper

Using a 10 mm socket, loosen the bottom nut.
Position the bottom nut so that it is flush with the end of the adjuster rod. This will serve to protect the adjuster rod from damage during the next step.
Using a plastic faced hammer, gently strike the bottom nut to release the damper assembly.
Holding the fork over an oil pan, remove the bottom nut and crush washer. If the crush washer isn't attached to the nut, check the bottom of the lower leg; it might be stuck there. Suspension fluid should flow out.
Making sure the fork is right-side up, remove the topcap.
Pull up on the topcap and remove the RLC Damper assembly.
Note: Photo shown below may not match exact product.

TALAS III Disassembly

Note: Inspect all o-rings during these procedures; replace these if necessary.

CAUTION: Put on your safety glasses!

Remove the TALAS aircap. To aid removal, hold the TALAS lever with your other hand as you turn the aircap.
While holding a shop towel over the topcap assembly, depress the main air chamber Schrader valve to release air pressure.
With a 1/16" hex key, remove the two small screws.
Remove the TALAS III lever and set it aside on a clean shop towel.
Using a dental pick, remove the TALAS III spiral retaining ring, and set it aside.
Remove the TALAS III adjusting mechanism by hand; pull straight upwards to remove.
CAUTION: Do not use pliers on the bare valve threads, as damage can easily occur.

Tip: thread on a plastic or metal valve cap before resorting to the use of any hand tool to remove the adjusting mechanism.
Remove the TALAS III adjuster tension spring, and set it aside.
Remove the TALAS III topcap housing with a 26 mm socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket to reduce lead-in chamfer, which will improve the engagement with the topcap wrench flats.
Remove the TALAS III upper assembly by pulling it straight upwards and out, and set it aside.
CAUTION: Be careful not to bend the TALAS III outer tube assembly as you remove it.

TALAS III Lower Air Shaft: Disassembly

Turn the fork upside-down and, and with a 10 mm socket, remove the TALAS air lower shaft bottom nut.
Push down on the protruding TALAS air lower shaft to push up the air shaft plunger. If it can't be dislodged, screw the bottom nut on to the shaft at least 2 full turns and softly tap the bottom nut with a soft-faced mallet and remove the bottom nut.
Turn the fork upside-down. Push down on the end of the TALAS lower shaft that is protruding from the bottom of the upper tube. Hold your hand under the topcap area so that the lower shaft doesn't fall on the ground as you push it down and out of the upper tube. Set the assembly aside.
Slide the lowers off the crown steerer and set aside for now.

TALAS III Outer Tube: Disassembly

Note: The following sub-procedure is only necessary if you suspect TALAS adjuster tube issues, such as travel steps not properly adjusting or evidence of travel creep.

With a 16 mm open-end wrench and a 26 mm socket, unthread the topcap housing from the TALAS III air chamber volume spacer.

Note: Blue Loctite #242 is used at this part thread connection during factory assembly.
Using the 7 and 11 mm box end wrenches, unthread the outer ferrule nut with the 7 mm wrench as you hold the tube nut with the 11 mm wrench.
Using a 26 mm socket and the 11 mm box wrench, remove the tube nut from the topcap.
Unscrew the inner tube valve nut three (3) full turns.

At this point, as everything has been disassembled with the 32 mm TALAS III fork, this is your best opportunity to clean or replace any parts before beginning the following reassembly procedures.

TALAS III Reassembly Procedures

TALAS Lower Air Shaft: Reassembly

Clean or replace seals as needed. Pre-lube the TALAS lower air shaft seals with FLOAT Fluid. Pour 3 cc of Float Fluid into the upper tube and push the air shaft assembly down into the upper tube.
Use a 15 mm deep socket with extension to push the air shaft assembly down, until it protrudes from the bottom of the upper tube. Set aside for now.

TALAS III Outer Tube: Reassembly

Note: Before reassembling the TALAS III outer tube assembly, be sure all parts are clean and free of Loctite debris.

Place a single drop of #242 blue Loctite onto the outer ferrule nut.
Note: Be sure that the long tapered end of the white nylon outer ferrule is oriented towards the outer ferrule nut.
Insert and press the outer tube assembly into the tube nut, while using the 7 and 11 mm box end wrenches to thread the two parts together. When you feel resistance on the compression ferrule, only tighten the compression tube nut 1/2 turn more.
Using a flat blade screwdriver, thread in the inner tube valve nut until you feel a slight amount of resistance as the parts engage together, without using any Loctite.
CAUTION: CRITICAL: at this point, do not tighten any more than 1/8 of a turn further.
Inspect the travel adjustment ports in the side of the outer tube. Be sure that you see brass color through the middle set of four holes. On the 32 mm TALAS III fork, you should also be able to see the color red through the upper two port holes and blue through the bottom-most two port holes, besides the brass color through the four middle port holes.
Place a single drop of #242 blue Loctite onto the threads of the tube nut.
Using the 11 mm open end and 26 mm socket wrenches, torque the tube nut to the topcap and tighten to 50 in. lbs.
Place a single drop of #242 blue Loctite onto the lower threads of the topcap.
After threading the volume space onto the topcap lower threads, apply grease to the lower topcap o-ring.
Using a 16 mm open end wrench and a 26 mm socket, torque the volume spacer to the topcap assembly lower threads, and tighten to 50 in. lbs.

TALAS III Topcap: Reassembly

Add 3 cc of the 5 cc FLOAT fluid pillow pack into the upper tube.
Note: Hold the fork tube at a slight angle as you pour the oil in, to coat the inside of the tube (and avoid dousing the seal head).
Apply grease to the volume spacer o-ring and upper threads of the topcap. Insert the topcap assembly into the upper tube, making sure not to bend the outer tube as you guide it into the lower air shaft seal head.
Torque it into the left fork leg to 220 in-lb. (24.86 N-m) with a 26 mm socket.

TALAS III Inner Adjuster Rod: Reassembly

Note: Before proceeding, be sure that all parts are thoroughly clean and ready for assembly.

Grease the TALAS III adjuster screw. Be sure to cover the spline, o-ring, and ramp with grease.
Place the TALAS III detent adjuster onto the adjuster screw.

Note: Be sure that both detent ball bearings in the detent adjuster are properly in place.
Drop the lower adjuster spring into the topcap.
Orient the detent bearing post (on the detent adjuster, as indicated by the red arrow in the left-hand graphic below) to the 11 o'clock position, relative to the front of the fork legs set at 12 o'clock, as you insert the TALAS III adjuster assembly into the topcap.
CAUTION: As you insert the inner adjuster needle on the TALAS III adjuster assembly down into the topcap, carefully insert the needle tip into the inner tube valve nut hole deep within the topcap assembly.
Install the retaining ring into the topcap retaining ring groove. Pull upwards on the Schrader valve, to position the adjuster up to the retaining ring. This will assist making it easier to thread in the knob screws.
Note: It's very important to be certain the retaining ring is secure in the topcap retaining ring groove.
Install the adjuster knob, with the engraved travel indicator mark default positioned at approximately 11 o'clock (relative to the front of the fork legs set at 12 o'clock).
Tighten the two screws with a 1/16" hex key.
With a FOX High Pressure pump, air up to your desired pressure level and replace the air valve cap.

Remove the Dust Wipers from the Lowers

Using an 18 mm open-end wrench, pry up the dust wipers. Be careful not to scratch the ID of the lower legs.
Note: If you are planning to reuse the dust wipers, make sure to pull off the garter springs before you pry out the dust wipers.
After the dust wipers are removed, the foam rings will be visible. Lift them out of the lower legs. If they cannot be located, check under the dust wipers; they might be stuck underneath.

You can get a general sense of the condition of the fork by examining the foam rings. Dry foam rings indicate a lack of fluids or, possibly, a leak. Dirty foam rings may indicate a faulty dust wiper. In either condition, the anodizing on the upper tubes should be examined. If the anodizing has worn off due to insufficient lubrication, replacement of the crown steerer assembly might be necessary.
After examining the dust wipers and foam rings, they can be discarded and replaced using the following replacement kits:
FOX 32 mm Dust Wiper Kit (FOX P/N: 803-00-079)
Lower Leg Bushings:
FOX Racing Shox recommends that you have your bushings serviced at a Factory Authorized Service Center. Refer to http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/service.htm.
Bottom-out Bumpers:
- Bottom-out bumpers are technically not a serviceable item, so they rarely need to be replaced.
Dropouts:
- Over time the knurled surfaces of the front wheel hub and quick-release skewer wear out the dropout region of the lower leg (see Dropout photo below).
- Inspect and measure the thickness of the dropouts every 6 months or 100 hours. Ensure that any point on the surface is above the minimum specification of 6.20 mm (see Measure Dropout photo below).
- Replace the lower leg assembly if the dropout thickness is at the minimum specification or less.
  Dropout
  Measure Dropout

Replacing the Dust Wipers and Lowers Assembly

Discard the original dust wipers and foam rings, and install new ones from the FOX 32 mm dust wiper kit (PN 803-00-079).

Presoak the new foam rings in 10 wt. damper oil.
Place the oil-soaked foam rings in the lower legs as shown.
Install the new dust wipers over the foam rings and seat them fully into place using thumb pressure, as shown. You can apply a thin coat of oil to the sides of the dust wipers, to ease their installation.
Note: be sure to seat the dust wipers into the lower assembly completely and evenly.
While tilting and gently pressing the upper tubes into the lower leg assembly, push past the newly installed dust wipers and foam rings, sliding the lower leg assembly onto the crown steerer assembly part way.

Tip: slightly stretching the outer lip of the dust wipers during this step won't risk causing damage to them.

Adding Suspension Fluid into the TALAS Lower Leg

Turn the fork upside-down and pour FOX suspension oil through the hole on the bottom end of the left lower leg (TALAS system side). Consult the Oil Volumes table for suspension oil weight and amount specifications per fork year and model.
After adding 10 cc of suspension fluid to the TALAS side, push the lower leg down until the TALAS system lower assembly stud pushes through the lower leg hole. You may need to use a small flat blade screw driver to help guide the stud through the hole. Install a new aluminum crush washer and nut onto the threaded stud. Torque the TALAS nut to 50 in-lb (5.65 N-m) using a 10 mm socket and torque wrench.
Now return the fork right-side up.

Damper Cartridge Service

For specific service instructions for damper cartridge assemblies, see the 32 mm RL and RLC cartridge servicing procedure.

Note: Before proceeding from this point, be sure that you have drained all oil from the damper cartridge.

Go to Damper Cartridge Oil Removal for more information about this procedure.

Install the RLC Damper

Insert the damper assembly into the right upper tube. Make sure the adjuster shaft protrudes from the bottom of the lower leg.
Place a new crush washer on the end of the adjuster shaft. Screw on the bottom nut. Using a torque wrench and 10 mm socket, torque the bottom nut to 50 in-lb (5.65 N-m).
Note: Be sure the threads are clean of grease or excess oil before torquing the bottom nut, or the torque specification may not be achieved.
Place the knob on to the adjuster shaft. Align the hex nut on the knob with the divot on the end of the adjuster shaft.
Using a 2 mm hex key wrench, tighten the hex nut.
Turn the fork right-side up and pull up on the topcap assembly. Pour in the proper amount of FOX suspension oil into the right upper tube. Consult the Oil Volumes table for suspension oil weight and amount specifications per fork year and model.
Screw the topcap assembly on and torque to 220 in-lb (24.86 N-m) using a 26 mm socket and torque wrench.

Install the RLC Topcap Adjuster Parts

Before starting the following procedure, open this diagram to view a graphic cross-sectional overview of the RLC topcap hardware.

Place the spring the spring back into the detent, then place the ball bearing on top of the spring.
Place the low-speed compression bezel onto the topcap. Align the multiple divots with the ball bearing; do not align the divots with the low-speed compression adjuster needle.
Place the lockout lever on top of the low-speed compression bezel. Using the lever as a wrench, turn the lockout lever clockwise as far as it will go. Take the lever off, replace it and turn again until you are sure that you have turned the adjuster shaft fully clockwise. Remove the lever one more time and position it near the 6 o'clock position; this is now the locked-out position of the fork. Turning the lever counterclockwise will unlock the fork. However, note that the fork will mechanically be locked out once the lever has past the 3 o'clock position, although it is a good idea to turn the lever full counterclockwise anyway.
Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, tighten the three set screws on top of the lockout lever. Do not overtighten these set screws. Doing so will damage the lockout lever and also the low-speed compression bezel. Overtightening the screws cause the associated ball bearings to stress the surrounding aluminum surfaces, causing permanent damage. To be safe, lightly tighten the screws, then back off 1/2 turn. Turn the lockout lever and check for proper, smooth operation.
Note: Each ball bearing must be on the in-board side of its set screw. This permits the ball bearings to move into the bearing groove, as you tighten the set screws.
Place the rebound knob on top of the lockout lever. The lever and adjuster shaft are indexed.
Using a 2 mm hex key wrench, tighten the hex key on top of the rebound knob.