32 mm TALAS II RL

The full "TALAS System" fork service overhaul procedures on this page require specialized tools and a higher level of technical expertise. The full service procedures are intended for the qualified service technicians having this higher level of technical service skill, and the proper tools.

• For simplified TALAS dust wiper and open bath oil change procedures, click here.
• For the full "TALAS System" fork service overhaul, continue with the procedures below.

Note:  Some photos may not depict the actual model of fork

Disassembly

Before removing the RL Topcap, you must first remove the rebound knob and lockout lever, and then the nut at the bottom of the fork leg, which will be removed in the next step.

To remove the RL Topcap:

1. With a hex key wrench, remove the hex key on top of the red rebound knob.

   Note:  The RL and RLC procedures are the same, except the RL does not have the low-speed compression bezel shown in the pictures below.

   
   
2. Remove the rebound knob by lifting it.
   
   
3. Using a hex key wrench, loosen but do not remove the three set screws on top of the lockout lever.
   
   
4. Lift up and remove the lockout lever. If it will not come off, you may need to loosen the set screws a bit more.
   
   
5. Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.
   
    
6. Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.
   • After loosening the RL Topcap assembly, you are now ready to remove the bottom nut on the damper, which will allow you to fully remove the RL Damper assembly from the lower leg assembly.
   • Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening the bottom nut.
   • Make sure the topcap assembly is screwed in a few turns since you will need to turn the fork upside-down to access the bottom nut. You will not want suspension fluid spilling all over your new Hush Puppies.

To remove the lockout force knob:

1. Using a key wrench, loosen–but do not remove–the bolt on the knob at the bottom of the right fork leg.
   
   
2. Once the bolt is loose enough, remove the knob and set it aside.
   
   

To remove the RL Damper:

1. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut.
   
   
2. Screw the bottom nut back on two full turns.
   
   
3. Using a plastic faced hammer, gently strike the bottom nut to release the damper assembly.
   
   
4. Holding the fork over an oil pan, remove the bottom nut and crush washer. If the crush washer isn't attached to the nut, check the bottom of the lower leg; it might be stuck there. Suspension fluid should flow out.
   
   
5. Making sure the fork is right-side up, remove the topcap.
   
   
6. Pull up on the topcap and remove the RL Damper assembly.
   
   

   Note:  Before removing the 32MM TALAS Travel Topcap, you will release the air pressure in the air spring and the IFP chamber using the TALAS IFP Charging Tool (FOX P/N: 803-00-127) shown below.

   
   

   CAUTION:  There is a small amount of FLOAT Fluid in the main air chamber and IFP chamber. This fluid can shoot out at high speeds when depressing the main air chamber Schrader valve and IFP Tool Schrader valve. Cover either assembly with a rag when depressing the Schrader valves.

To remove the 32MM TALAS Travel Topcap:

1. Remove the TALAS aircap. To aid removal, hold the TALAS lever with your other hand as you turn the aircap.
   
   
2. While holding a rag over the topcap assembly, depress the main air chamber Schrader valve to release air pressure.
   
   
3. Using a 3/8" socket, remove the TALAS lever locknut. Hold the TALAS lever with your other hand as you loosen the nut. After the nut is removed, simply lift the TALAS lever off the topcap assembly.
   
   
4. Remove the detent ring. Use needlenose pliers to grab the small dowels on either side of the Schrader valve, and pull the detent ring straight up. Before removing the detent ring, look at the notches to find the ball bearing; prepare to catch the ball bearing as you pull the detent ring up and off.
   
   
5. Using a 3/8" socket, remove the TALAS inner tube by turning the socket counterclockwise. The inner tube assembly is not screwed in. Rather, it is corkscrewed into the topcap assembly and will rise up and out of as you turn the socket.
   
   
6. Remove the red IFP chamber screw with a 2 mm hex wrench.
   
   
7. Screw in the TALAS IFP Charging Tool into the IFP chamber port. Cover the Schrader valve with rag and release all air pressure from the IFP chamber.
   
   
8. Remove the IFP Tool.
9. Unscrew–but do not remove–the damper topcap with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.
   
    
10. Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.
    • Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening the bottom nut.
    • Make sure the TALAS Topcap is screwed in a few turns since you will need to turn the fork upside-down for better access to the bottom nut.

To remove the 32MM TALAS Spring:

1. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut.
   
    
2. Push down on the shaft to push up the air shaft plunger. If it can't be dislodged, screw the bottom nut on to the shaft at least 2 full turns then strike the bottom nut with a soft-faced mallet and remove the bottom nut.
   
    
3. The damper shaft should already have been removed. Also, the TALAS Topcap Assembly should already be removed—but still screwed on to prevent fluid leak.
4. Unscrew the TALAS Topcap Assembly from the upper tube.
   
   
5. Lift up on the TALAS Topcap Assembly to remove it from the upper tube.
   
   
6. Turn the fork upside-down. Push down on the end of the TALAS Lower Shaft that is protruding from the bottom of the upper tube. Hold your hand under the topcap area so that the Lower Shaft doesn't fall on the ground as you push it down and out of the upper tube.
   
   

To remove the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly:

• If the damper and spring assemblies are still in the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly, they can be removed at this point without issue. Unscrew the topcap assembly from the crown and lift up on the corresponding damper/spring assembly.
• The upper tubes and steerer tube are pressed into the crown using a one-time press fit assembly. The crown/steerer/upper tube assembly is not a serviceable item; any deformation of this assembly requires replacement.

1. Both the damper shaft and air spring shaft should be dislodged from the lower legs, allowing you to remove the lower leg assembly. Drain the lower leg assembly into an oil pan before putting it aside.
   
   
2. Clean the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly with parts cleaner.
3. Inspect the assembly for any nicks, cuts, scrapes, scratches or gouges, and replace if necessary.
   • The assemblies that normally prevent the removal of the lower legs should already have been removed.
   • Removal of the lower legs should be done with the fork secured in a bike stand and over an oil pan.

To remove the 32MM lower legs:

1. Making sure the fork is secured in a bike stand or soft-jawed vise and over an oil pan, turn the fork upside-down.
2. Remove the topcap assemblies from both sides of the fork, and let the oil drain out.
   
   
3. If not already done, remove all base valve bolts and/or knobs.
4. Gently pull up on the lower legs to fully disengage them from the upper tubes.
   
   
5. Drain any remaining fluid from the lower legs into an oil pan.
   • After removal of the lower legs, it is a good idea to replace the dust wipers and foam rings
   • When possible, the bicycle/fork should be stored upside-down to keep the dust wipers and foam rings lubricated.

To remove the seals and dust wipers:

1. Using an 18 mm open-end wrench, pry up the dust wipers. Be careful not to scratch the ID of the lower legs.
   
   
2. After the dust wipers are removed, the foam rings will be visible. Lift them out of the lower legs. If they cannot be located, check under the dust wipers; they might be stuck underneath them.
   
   

   You can get a general sense of the condition of the fork by examining the foam rings. Dry foam rings indicate a lack of fluids or, possibly, a leak. Dirty foam rings may indicate a faulty dust wiper. In either condition, the anodizing on the upper tubes should be examined. If the anodizing has worn off due to insufficient lubrication, replacement of the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly might be necessary.

   After examining the dust wipers and foam rings, they can be discarded and replaced using the following replacement kits:

   FOX 32MM Dust Wiper Kit (FOX P/N: 803-00-079)

   Lower Leg Bushings:

   FOX Racing Shox recommends that you have your bushings serviced at a Factory Authorized Service Center. Refer to http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/service.htm.

   Bottom-out Bumpers:

   • Bottom-out bumpers are technically not a serviceable item, so they rarely need to be replaced.

   Dropouts:

   • Over time the knurled surfaces of the front wheel hub and quick-release skewer wear out the dropout region of the lower leg (see Dropout photo below).
   • Inspect and measure the thickness of the dropouts every 6 months or 100 hours. Ensure that any point on the surface is above the minimum specification of 6.20 mm (see Measure Dropout photo below).
   • Replace the lower leg assembly if the dropout thickness is at the minimum specification or less.

     Dropout

     Measure Dropout

Service

For specific service instructions for internal assemblies, see the 2007 32 mm RL and RLC cartridge servicing procedure.

Assembly

Note:  Before proceeding from this point, be sure that you have drained all oil from the damper cartridge.

Go to Damper Cartridge Oil Removal for more information about this procedure.

To install the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly into the lower leg assembly: 

1. Slide a new set of dust wipers onto the upper tubes. Lubricate the upper tube with a light coat of suspension fluid to facilitate installation.
   
   
2. Slide a new set of foam rings onto the upper tubes and slide them up under the dust wipers.
   
   
3. Line them up so that they are about halfway up on the upper tubes.
   
   
4. Slide the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly into the lower leg assembly. Do not slide the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly in all the way yet.
   
    
5. Slowly push the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly into the lower legs. Make sure the bottom rods of the damper and spring assemblies properly protrude from the bottom of the lower legs. You might need to guide them through using a dental pick; if they are off-center they will hit the bottom-out bumper and you will not be able to push the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly all the way down.
6. Place 3cc of FLOAT Fluid into the upper tube.
   
   
7. Pre-lube with FLOAT Fluid the TALAS Lower Air Shaft seal and push it into the upper tube.
   
    
8. Use a 15 mm deep socket with extension to push the Air Shaft assembly down until it protrudes from the bottom of the upper tube.
   
    
9. Place 5cc of FLOAT Fluid inside the upper tube.
   
   
10. From the bottom, push up on the lower TALAS Lower Shaft assembly a few inches. Place the TALAS Topcap Assembly into the upper tube carefully; remember, you need to insert the travel adjust rod into the lower seal head hole. Once it is engaged, you can push down on the Topcap Assembly. Screw the Topcap on and torque to 165 in/lb. (1864 N-cm) using a torque wrench.
    
     
11. Screw the TALAS IFP Recharge tool (P/N: 803-00-127) into the IFP port and pressurize the IFP chamber to 150 psi (10.34 bar) using a FOX High Pressure Pump. Screw on the red IFP chamber socket head screw with a 2 mm hex key.
    
     
12. Lubricate the O-Ring on the Adjuster Screw assembly and then gently push the assembly into the center hole of the TALAS ll Topcap Assembly.
    
     
13. Using a 3/8" socket, screw the Adjuster Screw in by hand.
    
    
14. Using the FOX High Pressure Pump, pressurize the TALAS main air chamber to 75 psi (5.17bar).
    
    

    Use care when unscrewing the pump from the adjuster screw Schrader valve. The adjuster screw may unintentionally be removed. Hold the adjuster screw nut with your fingers or a wrench as the pump is unscrewed from the Schrader valve.

1. You can use TALAS I travel knob (P/N: 234-04-013) or a 3/8" socket to turn the TALAS Adjuster Assembly. Ensure it is engaged with the 3/8" tank valve nut, then turn the knob fully clockwise (FULL IN on the TALAS II KNOB TIMING sheet).
   
    
   
   
2. Turn the TALAS knob out half turn (1/2 TURN OUT), or 180-degrees counterclockwise. (Use a reference point on the travel knob to assist you.)
   
    
3. Compress the TALAS lower shaft so that it settles at the lowest travel setting. Confirm by measuring.

   Note:  When hand dyno-ing the fork, do not place your hand on the travel topcap. This places pressure on the travel topcap assembly and will adversely affect your travel measurements.

   
    

4. Place an O-Ring on the lower shaft to visually confirm the travel adjustments (jumps) that will be performed in the next steps.
   
   
5. SLOWLY start turning in (TURN IN, or clockwise) the TALAS travel knob until the lower shaft jumps out of the upper tube (JUMP 1). The fork just went from the shortest to the middle travel setting.
   
    
6. SLOWLY continue turning in the TALAS travel knob (clockwise) until the lower shaft jumps again (JUMP 2). The fork just went from the middle to the longest travel setting.

   Note:  The 2007 TALAS 32 RLC/RL/R have 140 mm of travel, and the 2007 TALAS X has 130 mm of travel.

   140, 120 or 100 mm of exact travel will not always be achieved. Please refer to the 32MM Fork User Specifications to view these tolerances.

   
   
   

7. Now you must turn the TALAS travel knob in 2 degrees (TURN IN 2 degrees). Two degrees is a very small distance! The diagrams below illustrate how small the adjustment needs to be.
   Each hole on the adjuster screw (as shown below) represents a 10° segment. Therefore, the adjuster screw needs to be turned 1/5 of the distance between the center of each hole: 2 degrees.
   Use a reference point on the edge of the topcap assembly to make this adjustment. It also helps to use the 3/8" socket and turn it by hand.
   

   

   

   

8. Once the proper travel settings are achieved, remove the TALAS I travel adjuster knob, or the 3/8" socket if that was used instead. Place the TALAS Centering Tool (P/N: 398-00-282) on top of the tank valve.
   
   
9. Slide the Detent Ring over the Centering Tool and into the Topcap Assembly. Align the Detent Ring so that the ball bearing lines up with notch #3 in the Topcap Assembly, as shown below. For added reference, notch #3 is the last notch going in a clockwise direction.

   

10. Notice the short dowels on the topside of the Detent Ring (see drawing below); on the bottom side of the detent ring you will see longer dowels. These longer dowels need to slide into the holes on top of the adjuster screw. 
    Grease the spring and ball (on early 07 32 mm TALAS ll, a This spacer was installed into early 32 mm TALAS ll to increase detent spring force. Prevents the travel lever from moving while ridingspacer (P/N: 234-04-136) is used) and place it into the side hole. You can use the flat side of a flat-blade screwdriver to press the ball into detent hole as you push the Detent Ring down. As you slide the Detent Ring down the TALAS Centering Tool and onto the Adjuster Screw, you should be able to feel when the dowels have properly been inserted into the holes on top of the Adjuster Screw.
    
    
    
    
11. Place the TALAS II Travel Adjust Lever onto the Detent Ring. Orient the knob so that the lever is at or near the 9 o'clock position (rider's perspective), which is the longest travel setting.
    
    
12. Place the 7/16" lock nut on the valve stem and torque it to 45 in/lb (5.08 N-m) using a torque wrench.
    
    
13. Don't forget to take the O-Ring off the lower shaft.
    
    

To install the RL Damper:

1. Insert the damper assembly into the right upper tube. Make sure the adjuster shaft protrudes from the bottom of the lower leg.
   
   
2. Place a new crush washer on the end of the adjuster shaft.
   
   
3. Screw on the bottom nut. Using a torque wrench and 10 mm socket, torque the bottom nut to 50 in/lb (5.65 N-m).

   Note:  Be sure the threads are clean of grease or excess oil before torquing the bottom nut, or the torque specification may not be achieved.

   
   
   
4. Turn the fork right-side up and pull up on the topcap assembly. Pour in the proper amount of FOX 7 wt. suspension fluid into the right upper tube. Consult the Oil Volumes table for oil bath suspension fluid amounts as to specification, depending on your fork model.
   
   
5. Screw the topcap assembly on and torque to 165 in/lb (18.64 N-m) using a 26 mm socket and torque wrench.

   Note:  The pictures below show an RLC topcap assembly, but the procedure outlined below applies to an RL topcap assembly. Ignore the low-speed compression bezel and you'll be fine.

To install the RL Topcap:

1. Screw the damper topcap into the upper tube with a 26 mm 6-point socket.
   
   
2. Place the lockout lever on the topcap assembly. Using the lever as a wrench, turn the lockout lever clockwise as far as it will go. Take the lever off, replace it and turn again until you are sure that you have turned the adjuster shaft fully clockwise. Remove the lever one more time and position it near the 6 o'clock position; this is now the locked-out position of the fork. Turning the lever counterclockwise will unlock the fork. However, note that the fork will mechanically be locked out once the lever has past the 3 o'clock position, although it is a good idea to turn the lever full counterclockwise anyway.
   
   
3. Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, tighten the three set screws on top of the lockout lever. Do not overtighten these set screws. Doing so will damage the lockout lever. Overtightening the screws cause the associated ball bearings to stress the surrounding aluminum surfaces, causing permanent damage. To be safe, lightly tighten the screws, then back off 1/2 turn. Turn the lockout lever and check for proper, smooth operation.

   Note:  Each ball bearing must be on the in-board side of its set screw. This permits the ball bearings to move into the bearing groove, as you tighten the set screws.

   
   
4. Place the rebound knob on top of the lockout lever. The lever and adjuster shaft are indexed.
   
   
5. Using a 1.3 mm (0.050") hex key wrench, tighten the hex key on top of the rebound knob.
   
   

To install the lockout force/bump threshold knob:

1. Place the knob on to the adjuster shaft. Align the hex nut on the knob with the divot on the end of the adjuster shaft.
   
   
2. Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, tighten the hex nut.
   
   

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