use proper tools, supplies & kits · read all warnings · know oil volumes and inspection guidelines · know disc brake specifics for all Fox forks · know air shaft travel specifics for FLOAT and F-Series forks · use correct fork torque specifications


F29 RLC/RL


Note:  Before you jump into the service procedures, be sure that you understand that there are two models of the FOX 2008 F29 fork, each having a unique rake specification:

Note:  Some of these photos, while adequately serving to demonstrate service procedure, may not accurately show the fork model.

Disassembly

Before starting the following procedure, open this diagram to view a graphic cross-sectional overview of the RLC topcap hardware.

Remove the RLC Topcap

  1. With a hex key wrench, remove the hex key on top of the red rebound knob.

    Note:  Before removing the RLC topcap, you must first remove the rebound knob, lockout lever, and the low-speed compression knob. Then, remove the nut at the bottom of the fork leg.


  2. Remove the rebound knob by lifting it.

  3. Using a hex key wrench, loosen but do not remove the three set screws on top of the lockout lever.

  4. Lift up and remove the lockout lever. If it will not come off, you may need to loosen the set screws a bit more.

  5. Lift up and remove the low–speed compression bezel.

  6. After all the controls have been removed, you will see a ball bearing and a pin on the inside of the topcap. The pin does not need to be removed.

  7. Using a dental pick, remove the ball bearing. Also remove the spring that is underneath the ball bearing.

  8. Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 26 mm 6-point socket.

    Tip:  You may opt to grind down the socket as shown below, to improve its meshing with the wrench flats of the topcap.


     
  9. Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.

Remove the Lockout Force Threshold Knob

  1. Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, loosen—but do not remove—the bolt on the knob at the bottom of the right fork leg.

  2. Once the bolt is loose enough, remove the knob and set it aside.

Remove the RLC Damper

  1. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut.

  2. Screw the bottom nut back on until it is flush with the end of the adjuster rod. This is to protect the adjuster rod from damage in the next step.

  3. Using a plastic faced hammer, gently strike the bottom nut to release the damper assembly.

  4. Holding the fork over an oil pan, remove the bottom nut and crush washer. If the crush washer isn't attached to the nut, check the bottom of the lower leg; it might be stuck there. Suspension fluid should flow out.

  5. Making sure the fork is right-side up, remove the topcap.

  6. Pull up on the topcap and remove the RLC damper assembly.

    Note:  The photo shown below may not match the product exactly.


Remove the Air Topcap

Note:  Before removing the air topcap, you must release the air pressure in the air spring.

CAUTION:  There is a small amount of FLOAT Fluid in the air chamber. This fluid can shoot out at high speeds when depressing the Schrader valve. Cover the Air Topcap assembly with a rag when depressing the Schrader valve.

  1. Remove the aircap.

  2. While holding a rag over the topcap assembly, depress the Schrader valve to release air pressure.

  3. Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 26 mm 6–point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats.

    Tip:  You may opt to grind down the socket as shown below, to improve its meshing with the wrench flats of the topcap.


     
  4. Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.

Remove the 32 mm Air Spring

  1. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut. If the washer is not stuck to the bottom of the lower leg, check the inside of the bottom nut and remove it using a dental pick.

     
  2. Screw the bottom nut back on until it is flush with the end of the air shaft. You should be able to push down on the bottom nut to push up the air shaft plunger.

  3. If you cannot dislodge the damper by pushing down on the bottom nut, dislodge the air shaft by tapping on it with a soft–faced mallet.

  4. Both the damper shaft and air spring shaft should be dislodged from the lower legs.

  5. Remove the air spring from the upper tube.

     

Remove the Crown Steerer Assembly

  1. Both the damper shaft and air spring shaft should be dislodged from the lower legs, allowing you to remove the lower leg assembly. Drain the lower leg assembly into an oil pan before putting it aside.

  2. Clean the crown steerer assembly.
  3. Inspect the assembly for any nicks, cuts, scrapes, scratches or gouges, and replace if necessary.

Remove the 32 mm Lower Assembly

  1. Making sure the fork is secured in a bike stand or soft–jawed vise and over an oil pan, turn the fork upside down.
  2. Remove the topcap assemblies from both sides of the fork, and let the oil drain out.

  3. If not already done, remove all the base valve bolts and knobs.
  4. Gently pull up on the lower legs, to fully disengage them from the upper tubes.

  5. Drain any remaining fluid from the lower legs into an oil pan.

Remove the Dust Wipers from the Lowers

  1. Using an open-end wrench, pry up the dust wipers. Be careful not to scratch the inner surface of the lower legs.

     
  2. After the dust wipers are removed, the foam rings will be visible. Lift them out of the lower legs. If they cannot be located, check under the dust wipers; they might be stuck underneath.

    Tip:  You can get a general sense of the condition of the fork by examining the foam rings. Dry foam rings indicate a lack of fluids or, possibly, a leak. Dirty foam rings may indicate a faulty dust wiper. In either condition, the anodizing on the upper tubes should be examined. If the anodizing has worn off due to insufficient lubrication, replacement of the crown steerer assembly might be necessary.

    Lower Leg Bushings:

    FOX Racing Shox recommends that you have your bushings serviced at a Factory Authorized Service Center. Refer to http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/service.htm.

    Bottom-out Bumpers:
    Dropouts:

Replacing the Dust Wipers

Discard the original dust wipers and foam rings, and install new ones from the FOX 32 mm dust wiper kit (PN 803-00-079).

  1. Presoak the new foam rings in 10 wt. damper oil.

  2. Place the oil-soaked foam rings in the lower legs as shown.

  3. Install the new dust wipers over the foam rings and seat them fully into place using thumb pressure, as shown. You can apply a thin coat of oil to the sides of the dust wipers, to ease their installation.

  4. Note:  be sure to seat the dust wipers into the lower assembly completely and evenly.

Damper Cartridge Service

For specific service instructions for internal assemblies, click this link to open the 2007 32 mm RL and RLC cartridge servicing procedure.

Note:  Before proceeding from this point, be sure that you have drained all oil from the damper cartridge.

Go to Damper Cartridge Oil Removal for more information about this procedure.

Install the 32 mm Air Spring and Lower Assembly

  1. Grease the threads on the upper tube.

  2. Drop the air spring into the upper tube.

      
  3. While tilting and gently pressing the upper tubes into the lower leg assembly, push past the newly installed dust wipers and foam rings, sliding the lower leg assembly onto the crown steerer assembly part way.

    Tip:  slightly stretching the outer lip of the dust wipers in this step won't risk damaging them.

  4. Turn the fork upside-down and pour the proper amount of FOX suspension oil through the hole in the bottom of the lower leg. Consult the Oil Volumes table for suspension oil weight and amount specifications per fork year and model.

  5. Push the air shaft until it protrudes from the bottom of the lower leg. With a new crush washer, thread the bottom nut onto the shaft.

     
  6. Tighten the bottom nut to 50 in-lb (5.65 N-m) torque with a 10 mm socket and torque wrench.

  7. Turn the fork right-side up and place 5 cc of FLOAT Fluid (one pillow pack) into the left upper tube.

Install the Air Topcap

  1. Tighten the damper topcap to 220 in-lb (24.86 N-m) torque with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the topcap with the wrench flats.

     
  2. Remove the air topcap.

  3. Using a FOX High Pressure Pump, inflate the spring-side topcap Schrader valve to between 45 - 125 psi (3.10 - 8.62 bar), depending on rider weight. Consult the table below for air pressure guidelines.

    CAUTION:  Never exceed 200 psi (13.79 bar).

    AIR SPRING SETTING guidelines

    Rider Weight

    Air Pressure

    < 125 lbs.

    45 psi

    125 - 135 lbs.

    50 psi

    135 - 145 lbs.

    55 psi

    145 - 155 lbs.

    65 psi

    155 - 170 lbs.

    75 psi

    170 - 185 lbs.

    85 psi

    185 - 200 lbs.

    95 psi

    200 - 215 lbs.

    105 psi

    215 - 230 lbs.

    115 psi

    230 - 250 lbs.

    125 psi


  4. Screw on the air topcap.

Install the RLC Damper

  1. Insert the damper assembly into the right upper tube. Make sure the adjuster shaft protrudes from the bottom of the lower leg.

  2. Place a new crush washer on the end of the adjuster shaft.

  3. Screw on the bottom nut. Using a torque wrench and 10 mm socket, tighten the bottom nut to 50 in-lb (5.65 N-m) torque.

  4. Turn the fork right-side up and pull up on the topcap assembly and pour in the proper amount of FOX suspension oil into the right upper tube. Consult the Oil Volumes table for suspension oil weight and amount specifications per fork year and model.

  5. Screw the topcap assembly on and tighten to 220 in-lb (24.86 N-m) torque with a 26 mm socket and torque wrench.

Install the RLC Topcap

Before starting the following procedure, open this diagram to view a graphic cross-sectional overview of the RLC topcap hardware.

  1. Place the spring the spring back into the detent, then place the ball bearing on top of the spring.

  2. Place the low-speed compression bezel onto the topcap. Align the multiple divots with the ball bearing; do not align the divots with the low-speed compression adjuster needle.

  3. Place the lockout lever on top of the low-speed compression bezel. Using the lever as a wrench, turn the lockout lever clockwise as far as it will go. Take the lever off, replace it and turn again until you are sure that you have turned the adjuster shaft fully clockwise. Remove the lever one more time and position it near the 6 o'clock position; this is now the locked-out position of the fork. Turning the lever counterclockwise will unlock the fork. However, note that the fork will mechanically be locked out once the lever has past the 3 o'clock position, although it is a good idea to turn the lever full counterclockwise anyway.

  4. Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, tighten the three set screws on top of the lockout lever. Do not over-tighten these set screws; doing so will damage the lockout lever, and also the low-speed compression bezel. Over-tightening the screws cause the associated ball bearings to stress the surrounding aluminum surfaces, causing permanent damage. To be safe, lightly tighten the screws, then back off 1/2 turn. Turn the lockout lever and check for proper, smooth operation.

  5. Place the rebound knob on top of the lockout lever. The lever and adjuster shaft are indexed.

  6. Using a 1.3 mm (0.050") hex key wrench, tighten the hex key on top of the rebound knob.

Install the Lockout Force Threshold Knob

  1. Place the knob on to the adjuster shaft. Align the set screw on the knob with the divot on the end of the adjuster shaft.

  2. Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, tighten the set screw.



use proper tools, supplies & kits · read all warnings · know oil volumes and inspection guidelines · know disc brake specifics for all Fox forks · know air shaft travel specifics for FLOAT and F-Series forks · use correct fork torque specifications