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F100X/F80X
Note: Some of these photos, while adequately serving to demonstrate service procedure, may not accurately show the fork model.
Disassembly
The X Topcap does not need to removed to disassemble the topcap assembly.
If you do not wish to remove the rebound knob, skip to step #3.
Before removing the X Topcap, you must first remove the retaining nut
at the bottom of the fork leg. The retaining nut will be removed in the
next step.
Remove the X Topcap
- With a hex key wrench, remove the hex key on top of the red rebound knob.

- Remove the rebound knob
by lifting it.

- Unscrew—but
do not remove—the
damper topcap with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage
the wrench flats.
Tip: You may opt to grind down the socket as shown below, to improve its meshing with the wrench flats of the topcap.

- Leave the topcap assembly
on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill
out.
- After loosening the X topcap assembly, you are
now ready to remove the bottom nut on the damper, which will allow you
to fully remove the X damper assembly from the lower leg assembly.
- Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening
the bottom nut.
- Make sure the topcap assembly is screwed in a
few turns since you will need to turn the fork upside-down to access the
bottom nut. You will not want suspension fluid spilling all over your
new Hush Puppies.
Remove the Lockout Force Threshold Knob
- With a hex key wrench, loosen—but
do not remove—the
bolt on the knob at the bottom of the right fork leg.

- Once the bolt is loose enough, remove the knob
and set it aside.

Remove the X Damper
- Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut.

- Screw the bottom nut back on two full turns.
Using a plastic faced hammer, gently strike the bottom nut to release
the damper assembly.

- Holding the fork over an oil pan, remove the
bottom nut and crush washer. If the crush washer isn't attached to the
nut, check the bottom of the lower leg; it might be stuck there. Suspension
fluid should flow out.

- Making sure the fork is right-side up, remove
the topcap.

- Pull up on the topcap and remove the X damper
assembly.

Remove the Air Topcap
Note: Before removing the Air Topcap, you must release
the air pressure in the air spring.
CAUTION: There is a small amount of FLOAT Fluid in the air chamber. This fluid can shoot out at high speeds when depressing the
Schrader valve. Cover the Air Topcap assembly with a rag when depressing
the Schrader valve.
- Remove the aircap.

- While holding a rag over
the topcap assembly, depress the Schrader valve to release air pressure.

- Unscrew—but
do not remove—the
damper topcap with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage
the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly
grips the wrench flats on the topcap.

- Leave the topcap assembly
on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill
out.
- After loosening the air topcap, you are now ready
to remove the bottom nut on the lower leg, which will allow you to fully
remove the air spring assembly from the lower leg.
- Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening
the bottom nut.
- Make sure the air topcap is screwed in a few turns
since you will need to turn the fork upside-down for better access to
the bottom nut.
Remove the 32 mm Air Spring
- Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut. If
the washer is not stuck to the bottom of the lower leg, check the inside
of the bottom nut and remove it using a dental pick.

- Screw the bottom nut back on until it is flush
with the end of the air shaft. You should be able to push down on the
bottom nut to push up the air shaft plunger.

- If you cannot dislodge the damper by pushing down
on the bottom nut, dislodge the air shaft by tapping on it with a soft-faced
mallet.

- Both the damper shaft and air spring shaft should
be dislodged from the lower legs.

- Remove the air spring from the upper tube.

Remove the Crown Steerer Assembly
- If the damper and spring assemblies are still
in the crown steerer tube assembly, they can be removed at this
point without issue. Unscrew the topcap assembly from the crown and lift
up on the corresponding damper/spring assembly.
- The upper tubes and steerer tube are pressed into
the crown using a one-time press fit assembly. The crown steerer
tube assembly is not a serviceable item; any deformation of this assembly
requires replacement.
- Both the damper shaft and air spring shaft
should be dislodged from the lower legs, allowing you to remove the lower
leg assembly. Drain the lower leg assembly into an oil pan before putting
it aside.

- Clean the
crown steerer tube assembly with parts cleaner.
- Inspect the
assembly for any nicks, cuts, scrapes, scratches or gouges, and replace
if necessary.
- The assemblies that normally prevent the removal
of the lower legs should already have been removed.
- Removal of the lower legs should be done with
the fork secured in a bike stand and over an oil pan.
Remove the 32 mm Lower Assembly
- Making sure the fork
is secured in a bike stand or soft-jawed vise and over an oil pan, turn
the fork upside-down.
- Remove the topcap assemblies
from both sides of the fork, and let the oil drain out.

- If not already done,
remove all base valve bolts and knobs.
- Gently pull up on the
lower legs to fully disengage them from the upper tubes.

- Drain any remaining fluid
from the lower legs into an oil pan.
- After removal of the lower legs, it is a good
idea to replace the dust wipers and foam rings
- When possible, the bicycle/fork should be stored
upside-down to keep the dust wipers and foam rings lubricated.
Remove the Dust Wipers from the Lowers
- Using an open-end wrench,
pry up the dust wipers. Be careful not to scratch the inner surface of the lower
legs.

- After the dust wipers
are removed, the foam rings will be visible. Lift them out of the lower
legs. If they cannot be located, check under the dust wipers; they might
be stuck underneath them.

You can get a general sense of the condition of the fork by examining
the foam rings. Dry foam rings indicate a lack of fluids or, possibly,
a leak. Dirty foam rings may indicate a faulty dust wiper. In either condition,
the anodizing on the upper tubes should be examined. If the anodizing
has worn off due to insufficient lubrication, replacement of the crown steerer tube assembly might be necessary.
After examining the dust wipers and foam rings, they can be discarded
and replaced using the following replacement kits:
FOX 32MM Dust Wiper Kit (FOX P/N: 803-00-079)
Lower Leg Bushings:
FOX Racing Shox recommends that you have your bushings serviced at a Factory Authorized Service Center. Refer to http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/service.htm.
Bottom-out Bumpers:
- Bottom-out bumpers are technically not a serviceable item,
so they rarely need to be replaced.
Dropouts:
- Over time the knurled surfaces of the front wheel
hub and quick-release skewer wear out the dropout region of the lower
leg (see Dropout photo below).
- Inspect and measure the thickness of the dropouts
every 6 months or 100 hours. Ensure that any point on the surface is above
the minimum specification of 6.20 mm (see Measure
Dropout photo below).
- Replace the lower leg assembly if the dropout
thickness is at the minimum specification or less.
Dropout
Measure Dropout
Replacing the Dust Wipers
Discard the original dust wipers and foam rings,
and install new ones from the FOX 32 mm dust wiper kit (PN 803-00-079).
- Presoak the new foam rings in damper oil.
- Place the oil-soaked foam rings in the lower legs as shown.
- Install the new dust wipers over the foam rings and seat them fully into place using thumb pressure, as shown. You can apply a thin coat of oil to the sides of the dust wipers, to ease their installation.
Note: be sure to seat the dust wipers into the lower assembly completely and evenly.
Damper Cartridge Service
Specific service instructions for internal assemblies are in the works.
In the meantime, the fork has been broken down into its main parts, and
can be further examined. Replace any main sub-assemblies as required.
Note: Before proceeding from this point, be sure that you have drained all oil from the damper cartridge.
Go to for more information about this procedure.
Installing the 32 mm Air Spring and Lower Assembly
- Grease the threads on the upper tube.

- Drop the air spring into the upper tube.
- While tilting and gently pressing the upper tubes into the lower leg assembly, push past the newly installed dust wipers and foam rings, sliding the
lower leg assembly onto the crown steerer assembly part way.
Tip: slightly stretching the outer lip of the dust wipers in this step won't risk damaging them.
- Turn the fork upside-down
and pour the proper amount of FOX suspension oil through the hole in the bottom of the lower leg. Consult the Oil Volumes table for suspension oil weight and amount specifications per fork year and model.

- Push the air shaft down until it protrudes from
the bottom of the lower leg. Place a new crush washer on the shaft, then
screw the bottom nut onto the shaft. Or, you can place the washer on the
bottom nut and screw them on together.

- Tighten the bottom nut to 50 in-lb (5.65 N-m) torque with a 10 mm socket and torque wrench.

- Turn the fork right-side up and place 5 cc of FLOAT
Fluid (one pillow pack) into the left upper tube.

Install the Air Topcap
- Tighten the damper topcap
to 220 in-lb (24.86 N-m) torque with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to
slip and damage the wrench flats.

- Remove the air topcap.

- Using a FOX High Pressure
Pump, inflate the spring-side topcap Schrader valve to between 45 - 125
psi (3.10 - 8.62 bar), depending on rider weight. Consult the table below
for air pressure guidelines.
CAUTION: Never exceed 200 psi (13.79 bar).
AIR SPRING SETTING guidelines |
Rider Weight | Air Pressure |
< 125 lbs. | 45 psi |
125 - 135 lbs. | 50 psi |
135 - 145 lbs. | 55 psi |
145 - 155 lbs. | 65 psi |
155 - 170 lbs. | 75 psi |
170 - 185 lbs. | 85 psi |
185 - 200 lbs. | 95 psi |
200 - 215 lbs. | 105 psi |
215 - 230 lbs. | 115 psi |
230 - 250 lbs. | 125 psi |

- Screw on the air topcap.

Install the X Damper
- Insert the damper assembly into the right upper
tube. Make sure the damper shaft protrudes from the bottom of the lower
leg.

- Place a new crush washer on the end of the damper
shaft.

- Screw on the bottom nut. Using a torque wrench
and 10 mm socket, tighten the bottom nut to 50 in-lb (5.65 N-m) torque.

- Turn the fork right-side up and pull up on the
topcap assembly. Consult the Oil Volumes table and per the model and year of your fork, pour in the proper amount
of FOX suspension oil into the right upper tube.

- Screw the topcap assembly
on and tighten to 220 in-lb (24.86 N-m) torque with a 26 mm socket and torque
wrench.

Install the X Topcap
- Screw the damper topcap
into the upper tube with a 26 mm 6-point socket.

- Place the rebound knob
on the topcap assembly. The lever and adjuster shaft are indexed.

- Using a 1.3 mm (0.050")
hex key wrench, tighten the hex key on top of the rebound knob.

Install the Lockout Force Threshold Knob
- Place the knob on to the adjuster shaft. Align
the hex nut on the knob with the divot on the end of the adjuster shaft.

- Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, tighten the hex
nut.

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FOX Factory Inc.