36 mm TALAS II RC2

The full "TALAS System" fork service overhaul procedures on this page require specialized tools and a higher level of technical expertise. The full service procedures are intended for the qualified service technicians having this higher level of technical service skill, and the proper tools.

• For simplified TALAS dust wiper and open bath oil change procedures, click here.
• For the full "TALAS System" fork service overhaul, continue with the procedures below.

Note:  Some of these photos, while adequately serving to demonstrate service procedure, may not accurately show your fork model.

Disassembly

Remove the 36 Topcap

1. Using a hex key wrench, remove the hex key on top of the red rebound knob.
   
   
2. Remove the rebound knob by lifting it.
   
   
3. Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 32 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.
   
    
4. Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.
   • After loosening the 36 topcap assembly, you are now ready to remove the bottom nut on the damper, which will allow you to fully remove the 36 RC2 damper assembly from the lower leg assembly.
   • Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening the bottom nut.
   • Make sure the topcap assembly is screwed in a few turns since you will need to turn the fork upside-down to access the bottom nut. You will not want suspension fluid spilling all over your new Hush Puppies.

Remove the Compression Knobs

1. Remove the black protective cap.
   
   
2. Line up the bolt holes on the high and low-speed compression knobs.
   
   
3. Using a 2 mm hex key wrench, loosen—but do not remove—the hex bolt on the low-speed compression knob.
   
   
4. Once the bolt is loose enough, lift and remove the low-speed compression knob and set it aside.
   
   
5. Using a 2 mm hex key wrench, loosen—but do not remove—the hex bolt on the high-speed compression knob.
   
   
6. Once the bolt is loose enough, lift and remove the high-speed compression knob and set it aside.
   
   

Remove the RC2 Damper

1. Using a 15 mm socket, remove the bottom nut.
   
   
2. Screw the bottom nut back on two (2) full turns. Screw the black protective cap onto the bottom nut. Hold a screwdriver between the bottom nut and the bottom of the lower leg to keep the bottom from spinning as you screw the black protective cap on about two (2) full turns.
   
   
3. Using a plastic faced hammer, gently strike the bottom nut to release the damper assembly. Gently strike the black protective cap to release the damper assembly.
   
   
4. Holding the fork over an oil pan, remove the bottom nut. If the crush washer isn't attached to the nut, check the bottom of the lower leg; it might be stuck there. Suspension fluid should flow out.
   
   
5. Turn the fork right-side up and then remove the topcap.

   Note:  You do not need to remove your lower leg assembly at this point.

   
   
   
6. Pull up on the topcap and remove the 36 damper assembly.
   
   

Before you remove the 36 TALAS Air Topcap:

Remove the 36 TALAS Travel Topcap

1. Remove the 36 TALAS aircap. To aid removal, hold the TALAS lever with your other hand as you turn the aircap.
   
   
2. While holding a rag over the topcap assembly, depress the main air chamber Schrader valve to release air pressure.
   
   
3. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the TALAS lever locknut. Hold the TALAS lever with your other hand as you loosen the nut. After the nut is removed, simply lift the TALAS lever off the topcap assembly.
   
   
4. Remove the black nylon lever pad.
   
   
5. Remove the detent ring. Use needle nose pliers to grab the small dowels on either side of the Schrader valve, and pull the detent ring straight up.
   
   
6. Using a 10 mm socket to remove the TALAS inner tube. Simply lift the inner tube by the adjuster screw to remove it.
   
    
7. Remove the red IFP chamber screw with a 2 mm hex wrench.
   
   
8. Screw in the TALAS IFP Charging Tool into the IFP chamber port. Cover the Schrader valve with rag and release all the air pressure from the IFP chamber.
   
   
9. Remove the IFP Tool.
10. Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 32 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.
    
     
11. Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.

Remove the 36 TALAS Spring

1. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut.
   
   
2. Push down on the shaft to push up the air shaft plunger. If it can't be dislodged, screw the bottom nut on to the shaft at least 2 full turns then strike the bottom nut with a soft-faced mallet and remove the bottom nut.
   
    
3. Unscrew the TALAS topcap assembly from the upper tube, and lift it up and out of the upper tube.
   
   
4. Turn the fork upside-down. Push down on the end of the TALAS lower shaft that is protruding from the bottom of the upper tube. Hold your hand under the topcap area so that the lower shaft doesn't fall on the ground as you push it down and out of the upper tube.
   
   

Remove the 36 Lower Assembly

1. As you ensure the fork is secured in a bike stand or vise and over an oil pan, turn the fork upside-down.
2. Remove the topcap assemblies from both sides of the fork, and let the oil drain out.
   
   
3. If not already done, remove all base valve bolts and knobs.
4. Gently pull up on the lower legs to fully disengage them from the upper tubes.
   
   

Remove the Thru-axle

1. Loosen the four hex bolts on the lower legs using a 5 mm hex key. They do not need to be removed.
   
   
2. Using a 5 mm hex key, unscrew the thru-axle from the right side (from a seated rider's perspective) of the lower legs.
   
   
3. Slide the thru-axle out from the lower legs.
   
   
   • After removal of the lower legs, it is a good idea to replace the dust wipers and foam rings.
   • As a general practice, the bicycle (or the fork) should be stored upside-down, to maintain lubrication of the dust wipers and foam rings.

Remove the Dust Wipers from the Lowers

1. Using an 18 mm open-end wrench, pry up the dust wipers. Be careful not to scratch the inner surface of the lower legs.
   
    
2. After the dust wipers are removed, the foam rings will be visible. Lift them out of the lower legs. If they cannot be located, check under the dust wipers; they might be stuck underneath them.
   
   

   You can get a general sense of the condition of the fork by examining the foam rings. Dry foam rings indicate a lack of fluids, or possibly a leak. Dirty foam rings may indicate a faulty dust wiper. In either condition, the anodizing on the upper tubes should be examined. If the anodizing has worn off due to insufficient lubrication, replacement of the crown steerer assembly is imminent.

   After examining the dust wipers and foam rings, they can be discarded and replaced using the following replacement kit:

   FOX 36 mm Dust Wiper Kit (FOX PN: 803-00-124)

   Lower Leg Bushings:

   FOX Racing Shox recommends that you have your bushings serviced at a Factory Authorized Service Center. Refer to http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/service.htm.

   Bottom-out Bumpers:

   Bottom-out bumpers are technically not a serviceable item, so they rarely need to be replaced.

Replacing the Dust Wipers and Lowers Assembly

Discard the original dust wipers and foam rings, and install new ones from the FOX 36 mm dust wiper kit (PN 803-00-124).

1. Presoak the new foam rings in damper oil.
   
2. Place the oil-soaked foam rings in the lower legs as shown.
   
3. Install the new dust wipers over the foam rings and seat them fully into place using thumb pressure, as shown. You can apply a thin coat of oil to the sides of the dust wipers, to ease their installation.
   

   Note:  be sure to seat the dust wipers into the lower assembly completely and evenly.

4. While tilting and gently pressing the upper tubes into the lower leg assembly, push past the newly installed dust wipers and foam rings, sliding the lower leg assembly onto the crown steerer assembly part way.
   
   

   Tip:   slightly stretching the outer lip of the dust wipers during this step won't risk causing damage to them.

Damper Service

Disassembly

1. At the bottom end of the cartridge, remove the 18 mm bladder cap lock nut. Use a 8 mm box end wrench to hold the compression adjuster shaft feature tight as you unthread the 18 mm nut. The 18 mm nut may be tight as blue Loctite® is used at the factory during installation. Set the nut aside on clean shop towel. You may need to remove some of the hardened Loctite®.
   
    
2. Place a shop towel over the bottom stud bladder end and compress the damper shaft all the way in towards the seal head. This will displace the oil and apply pressure on the bladder and cap. This action will help to pop the bladder and cap up, or even out of the cartridge body.
   
   
3. Try to grip the bladder cap with you finger and work the cap up and off the stud. Sometimes you will need to gently grip the cap with channel lock pliers to grip and tug the part off; a little wiggle action as you pull also helps.
   
    
4. Occasionally, the bladder cap will dislodge from the bladder. Simply pull the bladder out by pulling it with plastic dental pick.
   
    
5. Pour as much oil out of the system as you can into a drain pan and also cycle the damper shaft a few times this will purge more oil out of the damper.
   
    
6. Clamp damper cartridge body into the soft jaw vise using correct size clamp holes on shaft clamp PN 803-00-084. Unthread the black seal head using a thin style 14 mm open end wrench.

   CAUTION:  Do not over-tighten the vise, or damage to the cartridge body will result.
   
   

   
   
   
7. Before you unthread the seal head, open it over your oil drain pan since oil is going to flow out of the cartridge once it is opened. Drain as much oil as you can out of the damper shaft assembly and set it onto clean shop towel.
   
   
8. Inspect the rebound piston and the piston glide ring (pink Z cut) PN 002-02-011 for excessive wear or damage. Excessive wear on the glide ring may cause a reduction in rebound damping.
   
   

   Note:  In the image below, the bottom out resistance is set to firm. To change the bottom out resistance, rearrange the spacers and glide ring to your resistance preference by holding the rebound piston bolt with an 8 mm open end wrench and unthread the set screw with a 2 mm hex key. As the glide ring increments from the end of the shaft and towards the bottom-out compression system, bottom out resistance decreases. Tighten the set screw to 25 in-lb torque.

   For further detail, see bottom-out control explained.

   
   

Assembly

1. Clamp damper cartridge body into the soft jaw vise using correct size clamp holes on shaft clamp. Thread the black seal head with damper shaft back into the cartridge body with 14 mm crow foot and tighten the seal head to 35 in-lb torque.

   CAUTION:  Do not over-tighten the vise, or damage to the cartridge body will result.
   
   

   

2. Unclamp damper cartridge and turn it around so that the bladder end of cartridge is up. Re-clamp damper cartridge body into the soft jaw vise using correct size clamp holes on shaft clamp.

   CAUTION:  Do not over-tighten the vise, or damage to the cartridge body will result.
   
   

   

3. Pull down top cap toward the floor too fully extend damper shaft

   Note:  Before adding oil, make sure that the rebound adjuster knob is fully turned counter-clockwise (OUT) and the high- and low-speed compression adjusters are also turned fully counter-clockwise (OUT).

   

4. Slowly pour FOX suspension oil into the cartridge body bladder end, cycling slowly the damper shaft (hold onto topcap). Refer to the Oil Volumes table for suspension oil weight and amount specifications per fork year and model.

   This action will draw the oil into the cartridge. Pour more oil in as you cycle the shaft in and out slowly. Make sure to compress the topcap all the way in until it stops; this will purge air out of the hydraulic bottom-out system. Air bubbles will come up through the oil during the filling operation. Slowly cycle damper shaft all the way through full travel about 20 times.

   
    
5. Pull damper shaft towards the ground to the fully extended position. The oil level in the bladder body should be about 2 inches down from the top. It may be necessary to add or subtract some oil to attain the 2-inch oil level.
   
    
6. Let the cartridge sit for about 30 minutes to allow all the air to escape out of the oil.
7. Inspect bladder and cap for cuts, nicks, and burrs (replace as needed with bladder PN 210-22-106 and cap PN 210-22-105). Make sure to remove all burrs from bladder cap.
   
   
8. Lightly grease the outer edges as well as the inside edges of the sealing lips of the bladder. Install the inner sealing lip of the bladder onto the inner seal groove of the bladder cap and carefully spin to make sure it is fully engaged. Push from the top of the bladder so that it is not compressed inward and slowly roll the outer sealing lip of the bladder onto the bladder cap.
   
    
    
9. Grip outside diameter of the top edge of the bladder and push it outward to ensure you have maximum air volume inside the bladder.
   
   
10. Double-check and make sure that the damper shaft is pulled to the fully extended position and wrap a shop towel around the outside of the cartridge body top area. This will soak up excess oil as it is purged during the bladder insertion process.
    
    
11. Install the bladder cap assembly into the oil-filled cartridge by slowly pushing it down into the cartridge body bladder cavity. Make sure to push it down all the way. The bladder cap should end up flush too the top of the cartridge body bladder cavity. You can use a socket (e.g., 15 mm) large enough to fit over the damper shaft adjuster rod to push down on the bladder cap assembly.
    
     
     
12. Clean off excess oil from cartridge stud threads using cotton tip swaps and isopropyl alcohol, and blow dry after cleaning.
    
     
13. Add three drops of Loctite® (Blue Medium) to the threaded stud above the bladder cap's top edge.
    
     
14. Holding the adjuster shaft with a 8 mm closed end wrench, tighten the bladder cap nut to 90 in-lb torque with a 14 mm crow foot open end and torque wrench.
    
    
15. Tighten the seal head slightly, but do not tighten it down yet. When tightening the seal head, be careful not to pinch the seal head o-ring.
    
    
16. Compress the assembly with your hands. You should feel firm resistance to movement and there should be no play. If air has entered the system, you will feel a little bit of play at the top of the compression stroke. The allowable amount of play is 3 mm. If more play is measured, continue with the next step. Otherwise, skip to Step #19 in this procedure.
    
    
17. Remove the seal head and top the cartridge body off with oil.
    
     
18. Slide seal head all the way to the piston. Insert the piston and seal head assembly into oil. Tighten the seal head slightly, but do not tighten it down yet. When tightening the seal head, be careful not to pinch the seal head O-ring. Return to step #16 and repeat through step #18.
    
     
19. Using a 14 mm crow foot open end wrench and torque wrench, tighten the seal head to 55 in-lb torque.
    
    
20. The damper assembly is ready for installation back into your fork.

Assembly

Install the 36 TALAS Spring

1. Place 3 cc of FLOAT fluid into the upper tube.
   
   
2. Pre-lube with FLOAT fluid the TALAS lower air shaft seal and push it into the upper tube.
   
    
3. Use a 15 mm deep socket with extension to push the air shaft assembly down until it protrudes from the bottom of the upper tube.
   
    
4. Place 5 cc of FLOAT fluid inside the upper tube.
   
   
5. From the bottom, push up on the lower TALAS lower shaft assembly a few inches. Place the TALAS topcap assembly into the upper tube carefully; remember, you need to insert the travel adjust rod into the lower seal head hole. Once it is engaged, you can push down on the topcap assembly. Screw on the topcap and tighten to 220 in-lb (24.86 N-m) torque.
   
    
6. Screw the TALAS IFP Recharge tool (PN: 803-00-127) into the IFP port and pressurize the IFP chamber to 150 psi (10.34 bar) using a FOX High Pressure Pump. Screw on the red IFP chamber socket head screw with a 2 mm hex key.
   
    
7. Lubricate the o-ring on the adjuster screw assembly and then gently push the assembly into the center hole of the TALAS ll topcap assembly.
   
    
8. Using a 3/8" socket, screw the adjuster screw in by hand.
   
   
9. Using the FOX High Pressure Pump, pressurize the TALAS main air chamber to 75 psi (5.17 bar).
   
   

   Note:  Use care when unscrewing the pump from the adjuster screw Schrader valve. The adjuster screw may unintentionally be removed. Hold the adjuster screw nut with your fingers or a wrench as the pump is unscrewed from the Schrader valve.

   View and print out 605-04-371: TALAS II KNOB TIMING to assist with this procedure.

   CAUTION:  Now that the TALAS main air chamber is charged, use care when turning the adjuster screw during the knob timing procedure. Injury can occur if the adjuster screw is turned too far as it may shoot out due to the pressure inside the chamber.

   If possible, use a TALAS I travel adjuster knob for the following procedure.

10. You can use TALAS I travel knob (PN: 234-04-013) or a 3/8" socket to turn the TALAS adjuster assembly. Ensure it is engaged with the 3/8" tank valve nut, then turn the knob fully clockwise (FULL IN on the TALAS II KNOB TIMING sheet).
    
    
    
    
    
    
11. Turn the TALAS knob out half turn (1/2 TURN OUT), or 180-degrees counterclockwise. (Use a reference point on the travel knob to assist you.)
    
     
12. Compress the TALAS lower shaft so that it settles at the lowest travel setting. Confirm by measuring.

    CAUTION:  When hand dynoing the fork, do not place your hand on the travel topcap. By placing pressure on the travel topcap assembly you will adversely affect your travel measurements.

    
     
13. Place an o-ring on the lower shaft to visually confirm the travel adjustments (jumps) that will be performed in the next steps.
    
    
14. SLOWLY start turning in (TURN IN, or clockwise) the TALAS travel knob until the lower shaft jumps out of the upper tube (JUMP 1). The fork just went from the shortest to the middle travel setting.
    
    
15. SLOWLY continue turning in the TALAS travel knob (clockwise) until the lower shaft jumps again (JUMP 2). The fork just went from the middle to the longest travel setting.

    Note:  The 2007 TALAS 32 RLC/RL/R all have 140 mm of travel,
    and the 2007 TALAS X has 130 mm of travel.

    140, 120, or 100 mm of exact travel will not always be achieved. Please refer to the 36MM Fork User Specifications to view these tolerances.

    
    
    

16. Now you must turn the TALAS travel knob in 2 degrees (TURN IN 2 degrees). Two degrees is a very small distance! The diagrams below illustrate how small the adjustment needs to be.

    Each hole on the adjuster screw (as shown below) represents a 10° segment. Therefore, the adjuster screw needs to be turned 1/5 of the distance between the center of each hole: 2 degrees.

    Use a reference point on the edge of the topcap assembly to make this adjustment. It also helps to use the 3/8" socket and turn it by hand.
    

    

    

17. Once the proper travel settings are achieved, remove the TALAS I travel adjuster knob, or the 3/8" socket if that was used instead. Place the TALAS Centering Tool (PN: 398-00-282) on top of the tank valve.
    
    
18. Slide the Detent Ring over the Centering Tool and into the Topcap Assembly. Align the Detent Ring so that the ball bearing lines up with notch #3 in the Topcap Assembly, as shown below. For added reference, notch #3 is the last notch going in a clockwise direction.

    

19. Notice the short dowels on the topside of the detent ring (see drawing below); on the bottom side of the detent ring you will see longer dowels. These longer dowels need to slide into the holes on top of the adjuster screw.
    

    Grease the spring and ball and place it into the side hole. You can use the flat side of a flat-blade screwdriver to press the ball into detent hole as you push the detent ring down. As you slide the detent ring down the TALAS Centering Tool and onto the adjuster screw, you should be able to feel when the dowels have properly been inserted into the holes on top of the adjuster screw.

    
    
    
    
20. Place the black nylon foam ring back on the detent ring.
    
    
21. Place the TALAS II travel adjust lever onto the detent ring. Orient the knob so that the lever is at or near the 9 o'clock position (rider's perspective), which is the longest travel setting.
    
    
22. Place the 7/16" lock nut on the valve stem and tighten it to 45 in-lb (5.08 N-m) torque with a torque wrench.
    
    
23. A quick test to make sure that everything was properly assembled is to attach the FOX High Pressure Pump back onto the Schrader valve. The pump should register the main air chamber pressure. If it registers zero, this means that the pump chuck is not properly seated on the Schrader valve, which means that the stack height of the parts underneath is too tall.
24. Don't forget to take the O-Ring off the lower shaft.
    
    

Install the 36 RC2 Damper

1. Insert the damper assembly into the right upper tube. Make sure the damper shaft protrudes from the bottom of the lower leg.
   
   
2. Screw the damper topcap into the upper tube with a 32 mm 6-point socket and tighten to 220 in-lb (24.86 N-m) torque.
   
   
3. Pour FOX suspension oil in through the bottom hole, into the right lower leg (the cartridge side). Refer to the Oil Volumes table for suspension oil weight and amount specifications per fork year and model.
   
   
4. Next, pour FOX suspension fluid in through the bottom hole, into the left lower leg (the TALAS side).
   
   
5. Place a new crush washer on the end of the damper shaft, and also the TALAS shaft stud.
   
   
6. Screw on the bottom nuts. Using a torque wrench and 15 mm socket (for the cartridge side) and 10 mm (for the TALAS side), tighten the bottom nuts to 50 in-lb (5.65 N-m) torque.
   
   

Install the Compression Knobs

1. Ensure the ball bearing inside the high-speed compression knob is present. Lightly grease the inside of the knob.
   
   
2. Place the high-speed compression knob onto the adjuster shaft, aligning the hole with the hex nut (there are 3 other empty holes) with the divot on the adjuster shaft. The side of the knob with ball should be right next to the adjuster shaft. Make sure the ball doesn't fall out as you install the knob.
   
   
3. Tighten the hex nut to 4 in-lb torque with a 2 mm hex wrench.
   
   
4. Place the low-speed compression knob onto the adjuster shaft, aligning the hex nut with the divot on the adjuster shaft.
   
   
5. Tighten the hex nut to 4 in-lb torque with a 2 mm hex wrench.
   
   
6. Place the black protective cap on the knobs.
   
   

Install the 36 Topcap

1. Place the rebound knob on the topcap assembly. The lever and adjuster shaft are indexed.
   
   
2. Using a 1.3 mm (0.050") hex key wrench, tighten the hex key on top of the rebound knob.
   
   

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FOX Factory Inc.